28/05/2020
Linen seed
by Loredana Parisi

We start from the seed, now more than ever.

Elisa Prete's grandmother (in the cover photo in a hemp field) loved linen, the precious fabrics that were the dream of every woman who wished to have a good dowry for the future. After the Second World War, while her husband was dedicated to the mill, he experimented with the first precious textile productions using traditional jacquard looms. And today, as then, Manifatture Tessili Prete has been producing their fabrics for over seventy years using only natural yarns in linen, hemp, cotton and blends. They do not use dyes but first choice yarns controlled by the national linen mill and hemp factory.

I met Elisa and her family in weaving: I listened to the stories of their productions becoming wonderful tablecloths or sheets scented with nature, kidnapped by looms and balls of solid beauty fabrics that tastes good and old.

The pandemic state of these incredible months of 2020 brought us back to the need to “slow down”: Giorgio Armani also suggested this, decisively proposing a more human style in fashion.

A production that is human cannot ignore absolute compatibility with the balance of the ecosystem. Linen, cotton, hemp are produced from the earth, they are the fruit of a seed, they must be cultivated and then used while preserving their best characteristics in order to enhance their value. Treated with due respect, the yarns that come from the earth and are transformed into fabrics to arrive in our homes, offer that absolute possibility of which Giorgio Armani speaks: they represent the beauty and comfort that lasts over time and that is not reduced to the harmful criterion of "disposable" which contributes to environmental degradation and socio-cultural impoverishment.

Using fabrics of 100% natural origin is also an advantage of a personal as well as a collective nature: natural fabrics are more resistant, are more hygienic and preserve those predisposed to allergic impact.

In fact, according to the ITALIAN SOCIETY OF PROFESSIONAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL ALLERGOLOGICAL DERMATOLOGY (SIDAPA) only two natural fabrics (wool and silk) can give rise to dermatological diseases compared to what can instead be caused by as many as four fabrics of synthetic origin.

We must also think about the next cycle of waste production when the fabrics are discarded: a synthetic fabric has a very long biodegradability time, in relation to the polymers it contains.

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